Art of shrinking fabrics



May 31, 1932. L s. l.. cLuETT 1,861,422

ARQ,` 0F SHRINKING FABRICS Filed April 18.1930 4 sheets-sheet 1 ZZ Y W/zJA 3 f 2014 l f May 3l, 1932. s CLUETT 1,861,422

ART OF SHRINKING FABRICS Filed April V18, 1930 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 May 31,1932. s CLUETT 1,861,422

ART 0F SHRINKING FABRICS Filed April 18. 1930 4 Sheets-Sheet 3 May 311932 s. L. cLur-:T'r v 1,861,422

ART OF SHRINKING FABRICS Filed April 18. 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 I? efe 72&2?"

Patented May 31, 1932 PATENT OFFICE s aNroan L.

CLUETT, l' TBOY, NEW YORK ABT 0F SHRINKING FABRICS Application illedApril 18,

This invention relates to an art or method of shrinking textile fabrics.

The dominant characteristic of my method is, that shrinkage ordimensional contraction 6" of a textile fabric, is produced bysubjecting it, while in a plastic or internally mobile condition(induced for instance by moistening) to, com ressive forces orcomponents of force applied tothe cloth from without, acting indirections everywhere parallel to the cloth surfaces, to condense orcrowd toether the yarn components so as to enhance 1n degree the yarnundulation or crinkle originali produced by the weaving operation. enthis contraction in web areain one or both dimensions (warp and/or weft)has been imposed on the fabric, it is set in its determined state ofshrinkage by drying, preferably under heat and pressure.

One object of the present invention is to provide for o erating upon thecloth, which may already e finished in the sense of havin been bleached,mercerized, printed, d ed, ca endered, starched, ironed or polishe orany ofl these, either in the yarn or on a 1inished web, or both, in sucha way as to secure and set in the cloth a maximum contraction in atleast one dimension of the web. Another object of my invention is thusto provide for subjecting ing. it to take'up in at least one dimension,and then to submit the cloth to steps causing the ixation of theshrinkage in that dimension,` and to do thiswithout stretching ordestroying the crinkle of the yarns of the cieth which extend in theIother direction. In a preferred series of steps which can be carried outb mechanism, the invention may be exempli ed b causing cloth to besubjected to a humi ifyng or moiste'nng treatment tending to softenadhesions or stinesses caused y the inclusion of starchy or gummydressings, and then to operate upon the cloth to cause it in a shorterextent in one dimension upon a suitable carrier; and concbmitantly orthereafter to fix the collapsed 'state of the cloth in that dimension,preferably by heat and pressure. Y

The invention will now be explained in cloth to treatment caus-4 A ngthe state of the cloth illustrated by Fig. 1

.2 showing modified apparatus; and

to collapse or lie Kexemplified by operations which may direction only.

1930. sei-m no. 445,500.

connection with the accompanying drawings showing preferred ste s by wayof illustration of the steps of t e process or art, and preferredmechanisms, and in which Fig. 1 is a diagram in elevation of one form ofapparatus upon which the method or art may be carried out;

Fi 2is an enlarged detaill partly in 1on gitu inal vertical section ofapparatus shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is an enlarged diagram side elevation explanatory of certainsteps of the treatment and of certain features of the apparatus;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged a carrier belt relied upon inafter explained;

Fig. 5 is a diagram side elevation of apparatus for practicing certainsteps of the art or process according to a different mode of operationfrom that of the apparatus shown transverse section of for functionshere- -in Figs. 1, 2 and 3;

Fig. 6 is an enlar diaglram inl elevation of an instrument o the sai aparatus;

Fig. 7 is a diagram in side e evation of a modified apparatus practicinga modified step of the method or art;

Fig. 8 is a diagram section of .the fabric comparing its condition intwo stages of the treatment;

Figs. 9 and 10'are res ctively com arative iafgrams in plan of c oth'nottreate and cloth a ter it has been treated;

Fig. 9n is a section either warpwise or weft-4 wise of the said cloth inthe state illustrated by Fig. 9;

Fig. 10 is a section warpwise showi Fig.

detail of Fig. 11 is a diagram corresponding to Fig. 12de an enlargeddlagram the apparatus shown in Fi 11.

The art or process in its reader as ects is conducted with the aid ofapparatus shown in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, and carried out on cloth which hasnot been subjected to any shrinkage operation, or hasibeen onlypartially shrunken, or which has been shrunken in one For comparison, asshown 2 :,eeam

in Figs. 9 and 9*, a typical cloth w of simple '20 tion is true whatevert each other,

weave may present a warp or weft system of yarns y1 intereniaged with acrossin system of yarns y, t e relative lie, erin e or arrangement ofthe said yarns in res ect to whether they are lon `-tu inally extendinwarps or laterally exten ing wefts, being suc that the yarns are bentover members of the other series of yarns so as to extend 4from side toside of the superficial faces of the fabric and to be substantiallyevenly distributed on either side of a medial longitudinal plane ofsymmetry. If such a piece of cloth w shoul have laid oil' upon it at m1a marked square, the dimensions of the marked area would be chan ed byshrinkage. Such a change will not be eicted in any manner without causinsome diiferent relation of the yarns y* tot e arns y'. This condieweave-construction of the fabric may be. n

ferring now to Fig. 1, a web w may be caused toL enter the apparatusfrom the right of the figure, whereupon, as in apparatusdiragrammatically illustrated at 1, the cloth may be operated upon tocause it to shrink laterally. To this end the a paratus 1 may compriseany ordinary liindP of tenter havlng webfmargin asping devices approachingveachother dirirring travel. from the entrance to the exit end of thedevice 1, the web being moist and dried before leaving the dc.

may comprise such a tenter,

vice 1 which and means for moistening and means for drylng the goodsduring its progress from its entering width 1where the eiect ofmoistening and dryin without stretching will be to fix in the clot anarrower width than its original or normal condition illustrated in Fig.9. There might be substituted for the apparatus mentioned, and for thesteps of treatment carried out on the said apparatus,the apparatus andsteps of treatment of m copendin a lication filed of even date erewith,ase Ser'al No. 445,299the effect of which is to set in the fabric ashrunken width-by improved means. It is not, however, anynecessa part ofthe present art or apparatus to su ject the web w to any treatmentwhatever prior to the practice of the treatment about to heV de-4scribed, which is, in specificillustration directed to securing a sh .yin longitudinal dimension of a cloth web capable of any such shrinkage.

The web au is worked upon to secure loncase is a shrink, to .a degree ming to that resulting from repeatedA lan treatments in-`use; one y mentis to provide cloth' for cutting ing into garments which its originallongitudinal dimension in and under repeated laundry L i w: exemplifiedby operations performed use As Yeryof the machine to the exit end ofsaid device 'ing re extent' of y 4 collar and shitting cloths. gitudinalshrinkage, which inthepreferred Y operation by softening it; asubsidiary Apt nposenfthi 'attained is a relaxation of any stressedcondian will reliably retain paratus best shown in Figs. 2 and 3, thislongitudinal shrink treatment may comprise advancin the wietogravitational engagement wit a carrier 5, which may be an endlesstextile fabric` belt capable of resisting tensionl in the direction ofits length, but having at least a substantial portion of its thicknesscapable of longitudinal colla se so as to occupy a shorter longitudinaldimen-l sion when the belt is flexed in one direction than it occupieswhen the belt is iexed in another direction or is straight.

` As indicated in Fi lithe web of cloth 'w may be received on be t 5 bythe operation of driven rolls 2, which advance it without substantialstress lengthwise of the cloth. A very light tension may be placed uponthe cloth by the weight roller 3; the operation of the rolls 2 may beaided by the top roll 4;

the rolls 2, 3 an 4 bein to deliver it at a predetermined rate, whc whenthe o eration is continuous, may be the rate of cliv- 1 on to the belt 5upon which the web w lies, free to adjust itself on the said belt 5,hereinafter referred to as a carrier for the cloth, except as its weightand friction hold it in contact with belt 5.

A referred treatment of the cloth as indicatedD at 10, F'gs. 1 and 2,comprises the direct ap lication to the web,'as shown, to its upper ace,of a fine spray or mist of water, steam or other suitable saturantcapable of entering the capillary spaces of the yarns. A preferred formof molstening device indicated in the'drawings, is a-form of air-blastatomizer using water, and adapted to apply a predetermined quantityaccording to the of the cloth in order to accomplish the esiredmoistenin or capillary filling of the yarns, 'and not to aveanypermanent detrimental eil'ect on the attained finish of the goods, so asto leave its trade finish substantially unimpaired. I have deterbyexperience that these quantities can be ascertained for any particularcloth, havrd to its contained moisture when delive to the apparatus, thetemperatures of subsequent treatment, and especially the distanceseparating the moistemng station at 10 fronrthe place where the cloth isdried, for expampleby application of heat, to secure the degree of eectdesired. Added water to the from 5 to 10 per centum of the the cloth isusuall suicient for e primary object pf thus moistenng the cloth 1s topreplalre 1t for the subsequent longitudinal shrin lg resu t llC weightvof of warp or weft elements of the cloth new lying loosely on the belt5 and some take upor of these elements depending u their viouscondition. However the t Y0th is ad uately 'prepared for the subse- 1-3the said yarn mately the `in accordance with a as a whole.

quent longitudinal shrinking operation if moistened to loosen adhesionsand soften stilienin substances but not caused or allowed tore ax ortake up in either direction at this stage.

. he eii'ect desired is to'shrinlr 'the longitudinally extending or warpsystem of yarns y by causing take-up of the yarns y2 and contraction ofthe distances separating wefts y1 (Figs. 8 and 10B) to or slightl beyondthe degree which would be attaine by repeatedl laundry washings of thefabric. Referring to Fig. 8, th's is accomplished by so operating uponthe cloth as to take-up the crinkled warp yarns illustrated by thetypical warp system member y2 at I in said ligure, through adesireddegree to occupy the shorter s ace for as shown at II` in saidgure, in order to cause the cloth, as shown in Figs. 9 and 9, to belongitudinally shrunken as il; lustrated inFigs. 10 and 10.

In the preferred forms of the invention, such shrinking of the cloth inone direction does not necessitate a stretching and elongation of thecloth in the opposite direction. Referring to Fig. 1'0" it will beobserved that while the Warps y2 of the preshrunken cloth have beengiven an abnormal amount of crinkle, the wefts y1 have not beeen causedto lose their normal crinkle, but on the contrary retain whatever degreeof crinkle they had when warpwise condensation of the cloth began.Comparing Figs. 10 and 9, the distance between the planes of the crestsof the undulations in the weft yarns is approxisame before. and afterWarpwise shrinking. These conditions obtain in the cloth when it is inits finished preshrunken state, and without any subsequent laundering.To this end, after the applied moisture has sufficiently acted ,upon thecloth lying upon the carrier belt 5 to loosen adhesions and softenstiiening substances, the Icloth is caused to adhere to or lie'infrictional contact iirmly everywhere with one face of the carrier belt;and the surface of the carrier belt and the cloth carried by it is thencontracted in a longitudinal sense; the cloth is then acted upon to dryit while it is in this contracted or condensed state to fix it in thatcondition, as may be done by the operation of heat and transversepressure.

Referring now to Figs. 2 and 3, bnc device to carry out these steps withthe aid of a carrier belt may be constructed as in said figures, apreferrred belt being shown in Fig. 4, which is atransverse The objectis to provide a `belt 5 in which the portion 5B is iexble and resistantto tensile stress, Whereas th`portion 5* is equally or more iiexible, isnot necessarily resistant to tensile stresses, upontitself to occupyshorter or longer length flexed state of the belt Suitable structures ofthe belt 5 crate, the surfaces detail section of the said belt.

and is capable of collapse may comprise multiple-pl of yarns o for theportion 5* an -ordinary connected woven fa ric, made suiiicient size,elasticity, tensile resistance and flexibility to serve the indicatedpurpose. Stout cotton yarns of good quality, if desired accompanied by alon 1- tudinal and/or transverse system of stu er yarns, provide withinthe old and common knowledge of weavers a suitable fabric having theindicated qualifications. The portion 5b may be united in any usualmanner, as indicated by weft floats, to the portion 5, and may differfrom it structurally only in materials from which it is made, or theweave structure of the woven fabric constituting it; or in both theseparticulars. The portion 5" may be a fabric having one or both systemsof woolen or worsted yarns, or of cotton treated to cause fluffysoftness; or having a Weave structure characterized by compressibilitywith flexibility and thickness, which qualities, however secured, willaccomplish the desired effect. For example, the section 5'1 may be atwo-ply multipleinterconnected by warp or weft section 5b may be a four,multiple-ply tion 5b ma oats; the six or more ply float-connectedfabric; the secbe woven of a coarser gauge and have relatively a largernumber of transverse or weftwise stuier yarns than the section 5" or thesection 5* may be principally composed of longitudinally extensiblestuffer yarns held between the plies of the multiple-ply structure bymere inclusion betvyeen them; in any case the portion 5 and theplortion5h may be interconnected by floats of t e yarn system of one extendinginto the yarn system of the other. The belt 5 may, of course, beconstructed of two separate fabrics of the specified kinds respectivelynot conjoined, or occasionally conjoined by sewed stitches. Where thedegree of shrinkage to be secured is modof any thick cloth belt may bedepended upon to contract on `the concavity and stretch on the convexityof a bend in respect to a median portion which neither contracts norstretches so that the concave face carrying the cloth frictionally orcompressi vely adhering to it; will constrain the cloth to contractalso.

Apparatus operating substantially according to the behavior of thatillustrated in Fig. 2, comprises a bed or support 12 for the carrier 5,which bed 12 is preferably of metal, has a plane upper surface at 13,rising to a maximum height at a point 14, preferably in a gradual curve;the bed 12 may be hollow as at 15, perforated as at 16, and the spacewithin it may be exhausted by any suitable suction appszrratus workingthrough a duct indicated at In this form shown the carrier 5 runs aboutcylindrical rolls 20, 21 and 22, one of which is suitably delivery ofthe goods in the direction of the ly fabric' driven at the prescribedspeed of i i 30 belt 5 andthe band 25 after passing the roll A by actionof the'roll 27.

4 :,semes arrow a. One of the rolls, such as 20, may be order toaccommodate itself to this bend the subjected to spring or gravitystress in the least extensible com onent of the belt 5, which directionof the arrow to keep the carrier is at section 5", an which is outsideon the belt 5 taut. passage of roll 27, imposes u n the part 5'* 5 Abovethe table or bed 12 there is arranged of the relatively thick carrier tnecessity to 70 an endle metallic, preferably polished and collapse. Theweb w which is by friction and very thin band 25 o a strongheatsconductpressure uniforml adherent to the contracting metal. If asmooth, liat surface is deing side of the het 5 necessarily partakes ofsired for the material treated, band 25 is of the collapsing motion ofthe inner surface of strong, heat-conducting metal, suitabl polthecarrier belt 5 which subjects the web to 75 ished; but if a flatpolished surface is not com ression exerted parallel toits surfacesdesired, this band may be a woven textile or con ensing or shrinki it.-The degree of wire cloth, or of metal having an engraved or thiscollapse is measurelby the dierence be# rou hened texture. The band 25may travel tween the length of any stratum of belt 5 l5 on t e surfacesof a cylindrical roll 26 which which remains unaltered throughout thepas 30 may be stressed in the direction of tne arrow sage about roll 27in' this case the portion 5 c to maintain the band 25 taut, and a hollowof the carrier belt 5, and the interior cirroll 27 which may be suitablyheated, as by cumferential extent of the inner surface of I steam atapredetermined pressure introduced ,the collapsed portion 5h of the belt5. The

through its hollow axes, not shown. If deeffect of this is, asillustrated in FigJS to 85 sired, the band may be further heated by acrowd together the transversely extending radiating heater 28 which, asindicated, may ,yarn components of the web w, and to cause be anelectric resistance heater, or might be the collapse by a greateramplitude of crinkle a steam box. of the longitudinal yarns y of the webw.

25 The carrier belt 5, the metal band 25 and The ratio of length of theweb w after 90 the web under treatment pass around the hot treatment toits length before treatment is roller 27, after assing which the band 25for these reasonsthe ratio between the like separates from t e carrierbelt 5. The web arcs of the circumference ofthe roll 27 as may bedelivered from the nip between the au ented by the thickness of the band25,

annbf the bend about the roll of the taut 27 to a rotated ca roll 29 andcarrier roll run of the relatively inextensible elementV 5` 30, Fig.1,whichi desired may be associated of the belt 5. This in turn dependsupon with a cloth piler 31, Fig. 1. the thickness about the roll 27 ofthe element In operation, the moistened web w grad- 5" ofthe belt 5. Theexpression 35 ually approaches the nip opposite the sumw1 R, mit 14 ofthe table 12 at and from which =F 'point it is under'transverse (i. e.normal) w,

ut not under any kind of lateral 01'10 tuis valid for this relationwhere 'wl is 4the un- `151ml Tpresure by the operatlon 0f the andtreated length if the web, w' -is the treated travel at the same speed.Any mostened, band 25, and R is the radius of the inextenswelled andshrunken condition 0f the arnS sible ortion of belt 5 as it goes aboutthe roll will, it willbe observed, be conserve and 27. '.'lthe ratio offixed shrinks can be a1- maintained in the region between the bandtered, therefore, by chan eit er the thick. 5 25 and the belt 5. By theapplication of heat ness of the portion 5" ofgx 5, or by substi- 11through the heater 28 and the hollow roll 27, tuting a roll 27 of dirent diameter. the finall attained state of the web will be In the caseof a belt of homogeneous conixed an preserved darin passage aroundstruction, in which at a bend the internal face the roll 27. Having regato the moisture colla andthe external face extends, there 9 of andthespeed o travel of the web, this will Iai'iintermediate stratum withinthe H5 ge about the roll 27 is throu h a sufbelt which neither extendsnor collapses, and cient distance to set the fibers an dry off the ratioof shrinkage will be expressed by the moisture. .The dispositions of theappathe relation of the radii of the inner surface ratus are such thatthe ent-erin pressure opof said belt and of said stratum which neitherposite the ummit Mis light ut upon asextends nor collapses. sage arounthe roll 27, the full tension o the When suicient heat isr'inaintainedin the carrier belt 5 is available transversely to ress roll 27 thefabric is dried and seti-n this longithe web under eironing heatdevelope tudinally collapsed or shrunken state when Seizure of t e webbetween the aplproachleaving the nip between the roll 27 and the W ingrunsI of the belt 5 and hand 25 in e manbelt 5.J The portion 5" at leastof the belt 5 *25 ner indicated flattens out any small blisters ispermeable to water vapor, and any excess o, wrinkleswhich otherwisemight be'pressed moisture received into this part of the carrier belt 5'ample opportunity to dry during I'Referring now to Fig. 3; the bend ofthe the longexterior run of. this portion of the V belt 5 rabout theroll 27 is relatively acute. In belt back to its receiving portion atthe right- 139 o this end the band 25 and the belt 5 length, Rx is theradius of the roll 27 and 105 hand end of the apparatus, as shown inFig. 2.

At and opposite the point 14, the heater 28 acting by conduction throughbelt 25 may be relied upon to relieve the web w of excess moisture tothe point of leavin in the web 'w only enough moisture to ena le it tocollapse along with the inner surface of the belt 5 prior to fixation bythe ironing heat, also transmitted through the belt 25 at the last partof its passage around the roll 27. As indicated in Fig. 10 the eliectupon the goods is to cause lengthwise shrinkage, so that thelongitudinal dimension se of the square marked at :n on the web, in itsnormal condiv tion, as shown in Fig. 9, will have become the lesserquantity indicated.

Referring now to Figs. 1l and 12, the belt 5 may be employed in aspecifically different relation to a pressure and heating element toeffect a longitudinal shrinkage. In this case the belt 5 may have itsrelatively inextensible element 5 within and its extensible andcompressible element without, and be supported and operated by rolls 60and 61, of which the roll 60 may be tensed in the direction of arrow c.The cylindrical roll 61 may be conv centric with the polishedcylindrical concave surface 62 of a hollow heated ironing bed 63, whichmay also provide a cylindrical convex surface 64, an entering curvedsurface 65, and a delivery surface 66.- The bed 63 may be the top of ahollow casting tapped fpr a steam pipe 68 and condensation drain 6 Inuse, the web w is fed in the direction of the arrow, Fig. 11, past amoistenin device 10 by rolls 69, to the entrance s ope 65, whence itenters the nip between the outer, most expanded surface of belt 5 andthe concave 62, by which the web is compressed against the surface 62.The lengthwise djmension of any unit length of the web corresponds tothecircumference of the arc of the belt 5 to which the cloth is applied bypressure, and is represented because of the liexure of belt 5, by thedimension d, which brackets a lesser length 'v of the inextensible part5* of belt 5. The web fw is, by pressure and friction, made uniformlyadherent to the convex outer surface 5" of the belt 5. Then travel ofbelt 5 toward the convex surface 64 first causes the belt 5 tostraighten, and then to flex oppositely, whereupon the len h of clothrepresented by dimension d rst is compreively forced to occupy thelesser dimension d1, and then the least dimension d o posite the convexsurface 64.

The under face of the cloth carried by the belt 5 is rubbed against thepolished surfaces of the hot bed 63` and is heated, dried and fixed inits shrunken condition after it has passed the convex surface 64, and isthence delivered from the apparatus, for instance over cage roll 29. Itwill be observed that tmf apparatus of Figs. 11 and 12 utilizes theextensible and collapsible surface of a carrier belt to shrink a moistweb a plied to it while said surface is in a state ci) extension, theweb being maintained in pressure-contact with said surface during itschange of state to its normal and thence to a state of collapse, the webbeing dried and removed after completion of hot pressure in said lat terstate.

It will now be apparent that in o eration on a cloth web, the apparatusof F1 s. 1, 2 and 3, and Figs. 11 and 12, respective y, rform the samemethod of effecting shr1nkage of the web, and that this method ischaracterized by exerting on all portions of the web material apressure, at all ints in directions parallel to the web sur aces, sothat it is compressively condensed in the djmen slop in which thecompressive forces are applied. By this means a yarn com onent, e. g.,warp, is given enhanced unulation or crinkle, while another yarncomponent, e. g., weft, has its individual members crowded more closelytogether. The confinement of the web between the contractile support(surface 5" of belt 5) and an opposed abutting surface constrains theweb to respond to the webwlse exerted compressive forces by internalrearrangement of its yarn components and prevents response by wrinklingof the web as a whole.

The method of shrinkage of cloth by webwise compression may be eected ina manner specifically different from that hereinabove described.Referrin to Figs. 5 and 6; the cloth web 'w is fed in t e direction ofthe arrow over a table 40, and moist/cned b a. spray device L0. It thenpasses throng a web-crinkli device, comprising rolls 41, 42 uipped wlthradial, parallel, roundedged vanes, and set so that the edges of thevanes intermesh, as shown in detail in Fig. 6, and produce undulationsin the web, which is then passed to the endless belt 51 which travels ata rate slower than that at which the web is fed or drawn into thecrinklng vane-rolls 41, 42, so that the undulations or rid s formed inthe web shall not be distur either by extension or contraction. Thecarrier belt 51 travels over the surface of a convex bedV 12 and entersthe nip between said surface and a tense, flexible, endless band 25,preferably of smooth metal, which presses the cloth against the belt 51,supported by the bed 12, the band and belt traveling Aat the same rate,so that the pressure exerted on the web fu: shall be transverse only, i.e.-normal toV its neral snrface. A heater, 28, is provid as in theapparatus illustrated in Fig. 2.

The crinkled or undulated web, in which the yarns have been softened andtheir contained starchy or sizing materials rendered plastic byvmoistening, `is subjected to progreively increasing transverse (n. e.normally exerted pressure as it passes into the gradually re ucin spacebetween the belt 51 and band 25. g1`he crests or salient fea. tures ofthese undulations are depressed, this depression develops a com. ressivecomponent of force, exerted at a points in parallel with the surfaces ofthe web, which by reason of its frictional adhesion to the carrier belt51,can not creep on the beltto any appreciable degree. The lengthwise(e. g. warp) yarn components are by this compressive force constrainedto assume a more sinuous crinkle, while the widthwise (e. g. weft) yarncomponents are crowded more closely toether. The web as a whole isdimensiona y contracted, occupying in its flattened condition the samelength asin its` previously undulatcd condition. When thus attened andcompressively condensed, the moisture is eliminated, as by the heater28..

The lon 'tudinal state of colla se and lixation of t is state of collase o the longitudinal element of the clot may be secured by still othermeans. Referring now to Fig. 7, the web w may be delivered in thedirection of the arrow on to the surface of a moistening and tractorroll to which the surface of said web adheres'inthe manner of wet clothb the capillarity ofthe wetting uid.- Whi e in this condition of moistadhesion, a rapidly reciprocating doctor knife 62 worked by an eccentric61 of very slight eccentricity ma act u on the cloth to detain it infine crepe-` e ri ges which are retained during passage of the clothover a doing knife 63 on to the carrier belt 51, which may be caused toat a rate which is less than the rate of elivery to the roll 60, so asto conserve the ridge formation, over a bed 12 and enter under a tenseband 25, between which and the belt 51 the crepe-like ridges areflattened to effect a longitudinally colla sed arrangement of the webcom nents, w ich arrangement is then fixed as y heat and ressure. Theheat may be su phed by the eater 28 of the apparatus a ve described.

.'ected to endwisecompression as a result of attening the blisters orwrinkles. A deof wrinkling which would cause the cloth to lap on itselfin folds on being sub# jectbd to transverse pressure is of courseavoided.

Other modes of performing the steps of the generic method and otherinstances of apparatus capable of carrying out these steps will occur tothose skilled in the art as a conseuence of the recommendations of thisspecication.

Apparatussuch as is illustrated in Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, ll and 12 of thisapplication forms the sub}ect matter of my copending divisionalapplication Serial No. 605,648, filed April 16, 1932.

Apparatus Asuch as is illustrated in Fi. 5, 6 and 7 of this applicationforms the su ject matter of my copend' divisional application Serial No.605,649, filed April 16, 1932.

I claim:

1. Art of treatin textile webs comprising causing the said we to adhereto a support while in a moist statez causin said support to decrease inlen h 1n one imension, and fixing in the web t e resulting rearrangementof its component strands by drying the web with the aid of heat.

2. Art of treating textile webs comprising causi the said web to adhereto a support while 1n a moist state, causin said support to decrease inlength in one imension, and fixing in the web the resultingrearrangement of its com onent strands by drying the web with the ai ofheat and transverse pressure.

3. Art of treating textile webs comprising causing the web to adhere toa' support, moistening the web, collapsing the support, subjecting theweb to p ure between the collapsed support and a hot surface to x thecollapsed rearrangement of the component yarns, and separating the webfrom the support.

, 4. Art of treating textile webs comprising causing the web to adhereto a support, moistening the web, collapsing the support andthe web onit in the direction of the length of the web during travel of the web ansupport, fixing the collaipsed state of the web by dryingwhile in saicollapsed state, *and doing the web from the support.

5. Art of treatin textile webs for the purpose of imposing aqengthwiseshrunken condition comprising as steps, applying the web to carrier belthaving substantlal thickne, moistening the web, subjecting the web toEeressure causing it to adhere to the carrier lt,and causing the web andthe surface of the belt carrying the web to collapse longlitudinally byllexin said belt toward t e surface carrying e web concomitantly withactin upon the belt to it.

6. Arto vtreatin textile we for the purose of imposing a engthwiseshrunken contion comprising as steps, applying the web toa carrier belthaving substantial thickness, moistening thev web, subjecting the web toperpssure causing it to adhere to the carrier.

t, and causingthe web and the surface of the belt carrying the web tocollapse longitudina-lly by movin said belt in a curved path, concavetowardgthe surface carrying the web, concomitantly with upon the belt todry it. n I

7. Art of treating textile webs for the purpose of imposing a lengthwiseshrunken condition comprising as steps, applying the web to a carrierbelt having substantial thickness, moistening the web, subjecting theweb to ressure causing it to adhere to the carrier Eelt, and causing theweb and the surface of the belt carrying the web to collapselongitudinally by Iiexlng said lbelt toward the surace cari-ying theweb, concomitantly with actin face acting 8. Art of treatin textile webspose of imposing aengthwise shrunken condition comprising as steps,applying the web to a carrier belt having substantlal thickness,moistening the web, subcting the web to pressure causing it to ad ere tothe carrier belt, and causing the web and the surface of the beltcarrying the web to collapse longitudinally by moving said belt in apath curved in respect to the surface carrying the 9. Art of shrinkingtextile webs comprising as steps, moistening the web, applying the webto an extended surface of a carrier belt having a surface capable ofextension and collapse, subjecting the web on th to heat ing maintenanceof said heat and pressure.

10. Art of treating textile webs, characterized by rendering the yarncomponents of a web plastic, diminishing the superficial extent o theweb by compression exerted on its material in directions parallel withthe surfaces of the web, and setting the web in its diminishedsuperficies.

1 Art of treating textile webs, characby rendering the yarn componentsof a web plastic, diminishing the superiicial extent of the web bycompression exerted on its parallel with the surtransverse pressurefaces of the web, exert e web in its diminon the web, and setting tished superficies.

g textile webs, characthe web, diminishing by compresdirections b, andsetting the web in its dimin'mhed superficies by drying and heatin 13. Af treating textile webs, characterized by moistening the web,diminishing the superficial extent of the web b surfaces of the web,while b in and heatin yMpllrg of treatingg textile webs, characterizedby rendering the yarn components of the web plastic, diminishing the webin warpwise dimension by compression exerted on its yarn componentswarpwise and parallel with the web surfaces, and setting the web in itsdiminished dimension.

l5. Art of treating textile webs, characterized by rendering the yarncomponents of the web plastic, dimlnishing the web in warpwise dimensionby compression exerted on its yarn components warpwise and the websurfaces while exerting transverse diminished dimension.

16. Art of treating textile webs, characand that of the attached web,web in its altered state.

rt of treating textile webs, characterized by aiixing a moistened web atall points to a support alterable in its superficial extent, alterin tbesuperficial extent of the support and t at of the attached web,l andfixing the web in its alteredstate. Y

18.V Art of treating textile webs, charactertractible support,contractin 'ng a web at all points to a conthe support and the web withit, and iixing t tracted state.

21. Art of treating textile webs, characterized by a ing a molstened webat all points to a contractible support, contractin the su pport and theweb with it, and fixing t e web in its contracted state by drying.

2. Art of treating textile webs, characterby a xing a web at all pointsto a contractible support, contracting the support and the web with itwhile maintaining transverse' preure on the web, rnd fixing the web inits contracted state.

23. Art of ized by aflixin a moistened web at all points to a contraetibe support, contracting the supe web in its conl treating textile webs,characterport and the web with it while maintaining sure, and settingthe web in its altered state. transverse pressure on the web and fixingthe 34. Art of treating textile webs, comprisweb in its contracted stateby rying. 'f ing aixing the web to a contractible vsu 24. Art oftreating textile webs, characterport by ironing pressure then causin t eized by diminishing the superficial extent of sup ort to contract,holding the web a xed 70 the web by compression exerted on its ma' to te contracting and contracted sup ort terial in directions parallel withthe surfaces by ironin pressure. and setting the we in of theweb, andsetting the web in its diminits alte state. ished superficies. 35.l Artof treating textile webs, comprism 25. Art of treating textile webs,charac ing ailixing amoistened web to a contractible 'l5 tcrized bydiminishing the superficial extent support by ironing pressure, thencausln the of the web by compression exerted on its masup ort tocontract, holding the web a xed teri al in directions parallel with thesurfaces to t e contracting and contracted supprt by of the web,exerting transverse pressure on ironing pressure, and setting the web inits altheweb, and setting the web in its diminished tered state. 80superficies. 36. A woven textile fabric of ordinarily 26. Art oftreating textile webs characshrinkable material rendered substantiallyterized by layin the web, in undulations, non-shrinkable in onedimension by mechanupon a support, attenmg the undulations by icallyrearranging its constituent yarns after pressure generally normal to thesupport, Weaving2 and having its original trade finish 85 therebydiminishing the superficial extent of substantially unimpaired, theyarns of one of the web, and setting the web in its diminits yarncomponents being crowded together ished superficies. closer than in theweb as woven, the yarns of 27. Art of treating textile vwebs, characitsother yarn component having an abnorterized by producing transverseundulations mal amount of crinkle sutiicient substantial- 90 in a web,laying the web in its undulated conl to prevent shrinkage of the fabricin the dition upon a support,flattening the undulairection of theseabnormally crinkled yarns tions by pressure generally normal to the whenthe latter tend to shorten upon subsupport, thereby diminishing thesuperficial sequent laundering, and the said yarns which so area of theweb, and setting the web in its are crowded together having at leastapproxie6 diminished superficies. mately a normal amount of crinkle.

28. Art of treating textile webs compris. y 37. A'woven textile fabricof ordinarily ing agixing the web to a contractible support shrinkablematerial rendered substantially by pressure, then causing the support tonon-shrinkableinone dimension by mechanicontract while the web remainsaiiixed therecally rearranging its constituent yarns .after 100 to, andsetting the web in its altered state. Weaving, and having its originaltrade finish 29. Art of treating textile webs, comprissubstantxallVunimpaired, the weft yarns being ailixing the web to a contractiblesupport ing crowde together closer than in the web by ironing pressure,then causing the su ort as wovenfthe warnpgfarns having an abnor- 1c tocontract while, the web remains a e mal amount GCI' esulleltSubstantially 105 thereto, and setting the web in its altered t0 preventShrmka 0f the fabric in the di- State, rection of these a normallycrinkled yarns 30. Art of treating textile webs, compriswhen the lattertend to shorten upon subseingaixingamoistened web to a contractibleqlelt laundering, and the Said Weit yarn! u.; support by pressure, thencausing the suphaving at least approximately a normal ort to contractwhile the web remains afamount Ofc e.

ed thereto, and setting the web in its al- A Wven textile fabric ofordinarily tered state. shrinkable material rendered substantially 31.Art of treating textile webs, comprisnon-shrinkable in one dimension' bymechamraing aixing a moistened web to a contractible cally rearrangingits constituent yarns after support by ironing ressure, then causing theweaving, the yarns of one' of its arn comsupport to contract while theweb remains afponents Vbeing crowded together c oser than fixed thereto,and setting the web in its al- 1n the web as woven, the yarns of itsother tered state. t yarn component. having an abnormal amount t5 3 Artoftreating textile webs compris'- of crinkle suiliclent substantially toprevent 120 ing aiiixing the webto acontractible support shrin of thefabric. in the direction of by pressure, then causi the support toconthese a normally crinkled yarns when .the tract, holding the web edto t e contractr latter tend to shortenupon subsequent launing andcontracted sup rt by pressure, and dering, and the said yarns which arecrowd C) `setting the web in its tered state. together having in thefinished preshrunken 33. Art oit .ting telxtilc webs, com risstate ofthe fabric and before subsequent mg aflixmg a moistened web to a contraeible laundering at least approximately. a normal support bypressure,then causi ,the support amounto crinkle.' t to contract,holding the web a ed to the 39. A woven textiley fabricof ordinarily urcontracting and contracted support by presshnkeble mlterial renderedsubstantially 189 Ving atlixing the web non-shrinkable in one dimensionby mechanically rearranging its constituent yarns after weaving, theweft arns being crowded together closer than 1n the web as woven, thewar yarns having an abnormal amount of crin le sufficient substantiallyto prevent shrinkage of the fabric in the direction of these abnormallycrinkled yarns when the latter tend to shorten u 0n subsequentlaundering, and the said Wefix) yarns having in the iinished preshrunkenstate of the fabric and before subsequent laundering `at leastapproximately a normal amount of crinkle.

40. Art of treating textile webs compristo a contractible support bypressure maintained until the support is Contracted, then causing the suport to contract with the web remaining axed thereon and lixing the webin its altered state.

41. Art of treating textile webs comprising alixing the web to acontractible support by ironing pressure Vmaintained until the supportis contracted, then causing the support to contract with the webremaining affixed thereon and fixing the web in its altered state.

42. Art of treating textile webs comprising ailixing a moistenedweb to aeontractible support by pressure maintained until the support iscontracted, then causing the sup ort to contract with the web remaininga. ed thereon and m'ng the web in its altered state.

43. Art of treating textile webs comprising ing a moistened web to acontractible `support by ironing pressure maintained until the supportis contracted, then causing the support to Acontract with the webremaining aixed thereon and fixing the web in its altered state.

44. Art of-treatng textile ing as steps: exerting com the web indirections pa el with the surface thereof, and restr the web againstundulatory lexure of its surface while prowebs comprislessive stress onducin by said compressive stress increased unmu ation of the componentyarns of the we l45. Art of treating textile webs comprising as steps:exerting com .eve stress on the web in 'ons el with the surface thereof,and co sure exerted normally toits surface toY prevent undulatlon of theweb, while producin by stress an increased un ula- 46. git of 8b ewebscompris- 1n as pszaixmg aw toamovmg' su rcally contractible carrierand maintainliig pressure on the webmntil surface of the carrier 1s madeto contract, and durin and n fter contraction thereof, causing sai rlledto contract in p u ponentcngl'lgirns of the we while undulato distortionof the web 47. Me od of preventing as such. treating textile webs comofthe weft yarn comen causing take-up of the warp components b compressionexerted on the webparallel wit its surface, and setting the web in itsaltered state.

48. Method of treatin textile webs comprising causing take-up o the weftyarn components of the web, conning the web against a support contractible in its superficial extent, diminishing the superficial extent of thesupport while the web is confined thereagalnst, and settin the web inits altered state.

Signed y me at Troy, New York, this first day of April, 1930.

SANFORD L. CLUETT.

prising causing take-u ponents of the web, t

P nlining the web by preslos

